Tarbert to Stornoway

Some pictures of the approach to Tarbert and Tehari II on last nights mooring, a little close to the Ferry as it turned out.

Today we sailed Northwards up the Minch to Stornoway, one of the best sails of recent weeks, with the cruising chute up and the tide and wind behind us. Stornoway looks a more interesting town than the other places we've seen in this island chain. It's even got a few trees. 

We met up with a boat that we last saw in Rum. They were intending to go all round but unfortunately have developed engine problems so may have to turn back.

Tomorrow we intend to go sightseeing.

  

Skye and Plockton and a whale

We spent a almost a week in Skye, waiting for weather and trying to find an annoying water leak. (Our domestic water was dripping slowly into the bilges).

There was off course still time for sight seeing. The above house is typical of the old crofters homes in sky, small windows and with thatch held on with rope anchored down with rocks.     

Skye is more touristy than the Small Isalnds, especially the main town Portree.

We also went over to the pretty village of Plocton for a couple of nights. The route was sheltered and sailable and we were starting to get cabin fever staying in one place. It was well worth the visit despite not getting us any nearer the Outer Hebrides.

We sailed up Loch Carron, also stunningly beautiful. It's strange that some of the unplanned trips, taken only because the wind is blowing right for them, are often more rewarding than what we were aiming for in the first place.

Yesterday the weather was finally right for the trip across the Minch. Dolphins and other sealife are supposed to abound so we kept our eyes fixed on the sea. Nothing showed itself except a few very pretty puffins. Then about a mile away we spotted what looked like white water breaking on a rock. Not having expected a rock to be there we checked the chart, nothing. We looked at the rock again, it seemed to be moving. We got the binoculars out  and saw that said rock was disappearing under the waves and resufacing, throwing up spray with a huge belly flop. It was a good forty foot long and moving very fast. 

It was our first whale sighting and we both felt glad it was not any closer!

We are due to set off up the Minch to Stornoway tomorrow and are not sure if we want to see anotherone or not. 

Below is a clip of arriving at Scalpay. An island that boasts a population of three hundred people most of whom are related.  

The town is losely spread and has a shop and a school.

  

Rum to Skye.

Rum is as different from the Muck and Eigg as they are from each other. After a long history of settlement by a variety of different peoples it was 'cleared' of its population in the early 18 hundreds by the landowner who wanted to use the land sheep.

The crofters were forcibly removed from their stone houses and shipped to Nova Scotia. The landscape is still dotted with the 'black houses' so called because of the effect of the peat fires.

The sheep herds proved commercially unsuccessful and only lasted a few years before the Island was up for sale.     

Rum was purchased by a wealthy Lancashire mill owner who used it as a country retreat. It was at the time fashionable to own a Scottish Estate, and his son then built the above Kinloch Castle as a hunting lodge. Deer herds and small game were introduced. The family only visited the Island for a few weeks each year but tales of their opulent life style and outrageous parties are still rife.
The Island was at that time inhabited by staff and their families to look after the castle. When the last owner died his wife sold the Island to Scottish Nature and for the next fifty it was a nature reserve. Only people with special permission and a scientific reason for going there were allowed to land.
So Rum is a beautifully unspoilt home to rare wildlife and plants that are still being studied to this day.    
The Castle was not cleared before being sold and is furnished exactly as it was when last used. It has a Marie Celeste feel to it as the personal belongings of the last owner lay about as if waiting for him to return.

We left Rum in good weather but a worsening forecast and sailed first to Malliag, a fishing port where we decided not to linger, had a quick look at the lovely Loch Nevis and then a sail with the tide (a stream of 7 knots) up to Skye.
We are safely moored in Kyleakin waiting for a series of 7/8s to go through and have hired a car to explore the Island, which currently looks a little cloudy. The picture below was taken at mid-day!

Muck and Eigg

Having dropped Rick and Kirsty off we've now started journeying northwards again.

We had intended to go round the Mull of Kintyre but with a seven in the forecast thought it might be unwise so we enjoyed a short sojourn in the Crinan Canal again before heading up the beautiful Loch Craignish to Ardfern Yacht Haven.
Next day we set off early to get the tide right through Dorus Mor and then the Sound of Luing, both interesting tidal gates where you could end up with seven knots against you. We passed Corryvreckan with its whirlpools and standing waves but didn't feel tempted to venture closer as we had wind against tide. Perhaps we'll do that on the way back.
We spent a night in Tobermoray. We only went in to see who was in there, intending to Anchor in Loch Sunart but found Mike in Jagged Edge, one of the all rounders who were holed up in Lowestoft much earlier in the trip. He had left a day or two after us and had been further delayed by alternator troubles.

AdfernMuck

He had eventually arrived safely and it was nice to see him and catch up with his experiences over a few beers.
Next morning we left for the Small Islands. We had a great sail in flat calm seas and only ten knots of wind arriving in Muck by mid afternoon. Muck has a population of 38. We met most of them and a very contented bunch they all seemed. They even manage to maintain a junior school, apparently there is a new teacher starting in September. She has two children of her own which will double the class size. There are also four preschool children on the island so they expect her to be busier next year.

We walked along the main (only) road.

The sign on the craft and gift shop said it was open 24/7. It sells locally produced goods plus fruit and veg and never locks up but operates purely on an honesty box.
Muck is owned by a Laird. Everyone rents off him and said he was a great bloke.

Farming, fishing and tourism are the main industries. Cows and sheep roam freely.

The Island of Eigg had an absentee land owner but fifteen years ago managed to buy him out. Eigg is now owned by a residents cooperative with some input from Scottish Heritage and boast a healthy population of 83.
Both Island are lovely and to cap it all the sun is out!

Sunshine, visitors and no time to blog...

Last week the sun finally arrived last week, and a day or two later so did Rick and Kirsty.It was great to have company, We picked them up in Ardrossan, sailed to Loch Ranza on The Isle of Arran, went to Cambeltown and then back to Brodrick on Arran before returning to Ardrossan.

We did anchoring and mooring buoys so they had to get to grips with the dinghy for an evening in the pub.

Arran is a lovely island, sometimes described as little Scotland because it has a little of everything that Scotland is famous for. High peaks, glens, pretty villages, lochs and waterfalls.
We visited a castle and a distillery and saw wild deer roaming freely.  
Also saw the steam paddle boat Waverley also visiting the island, probably cost those tourists more!
We took pictures of them and they took pictures of us as we both left harbour together.

   As we settled down for an early night on the evening of Rick and Kirsty's departure the coastguard put out a call for any vessels in Ardrossan. We responded and were asked to go to the aid of a chap who had jumped off the harbour wall (for a bet) and was now hanging to a buoy in difficulties.
By the time we arrived he had become detached from the buoy and was drifting out to sea. Another skipper had jumped on our boat before we left to help which was just as well because the casualty could not help himself at all and had to be lifted bodily on board. When we got back into port there was a helicopter ambulance, tow police cars and the coastguards all waiting. He was airlifted to hospital due to his weakened state but I believe he did survive.