Loch Ness in 35 knots of wind

We are beginning to think that the Caledonian Canal was not such a soft option after all.
We set off this morning in hardly any wind and began short tacking up the Loch under full sail. We making very slow progress and resigned to the idea of a long sail but enjoying the scenery so that was okay.
Then the wind increased slightly, good we thought, we may make it to somewhere for teatime. Then in the space of less than five minutes we were hit by thirty to forty knots of wind and the boat was on its side careering towards the other bank at six to seven knots. Big waves quickly built up and were crashing over the boat as we hurriedly reefed everything in, and for the first time ever we needed to use the wizzy windscreen clearers to see where we were going...and all in a glorified pond!
Now anchored on the windward shore of a sheltered bay waiting for the wind to abate.
We might be here all night.
And we didn't see Nessy

View from anchorage, I tried to get a picture of the waves racing down the Loch as I'm sure no one will believe us, but they are now too far away. 

Walking in the Great Glen

Walking the Great Glen Way as we  paused for the night before proceeding down the canal towards Loch Ness.

We have negotiated six locks and two swing bridges so far, only twenty three locks to go.

This one is on a flight of four locks which actually turned out to be easier to manage the boat through than Angela had expected. No hassle at all.

  

Arbroath to Inverness

Visitors in Arbroath, we quite liked them until they decided to move in,

Bob put a picture on Facebook, moaning that they hadn't even laid any eggs for us. The following day the harbour master arrived with a package addressed to Tehari II, someone had sent us six duck eggs wrapped in bubble wrap. Amazingly they had arrived whole and unbroken and were lovely and tasty for breakfast next morning. Thanks Gerald!!

We left Arbroath at 7.15 for the thirty hour trip to Inverness, aiming to make full use of the gap between two 'unseasonally deep atlantic lows'. Since we had visited all the harbours on route by car whilst waiting for the force ten to blow through, we didn't think we would be missing anything by just going for it.

We left in hardly any wind and had to motor for the first hour but then it picked up nicely to gusts of 20-25 knots right behind us. The boat surfed nicely, averaging 8 knots with regular speeds above 10 and one very impressive 11 appearing on the speedo.

The result of that was that we made the trip quicker than expected and could have reached the infamous Rattray Head with the tide against us, and against the wind. We called in to Peterhead for a few hours    
to wait for the tide to change and managed to get a few hours sleep before setting out again.

The rest of the passage consisted of the usual contrasts that we have come to expect some fairly strong winds, some periods of no wind, bright sunshine at times and heavy squalls just a few minutes later.
We knew the Moray Firth was beautiful because of our car trip, which was just as well because doing it in the dark and occassional fog we couldn't fully appreciate its majestic splendour and rugged isolation.
We only saw one other boat the whole trip and that was Reiner, the German guy we met in Arbroath who is doing the same trip.    

The fishing fleets from the many little harbour towns have all but disappeared, which is tragic really. Nor was there another single boat in the Firth appraching the Inverness road bridge.

The Firth was spectaculary beautiful but the weather meant that the pictures didn't do it justice. The sun is out today, we intend to stay in the Seaport Marina until tomorrow to rest, reprovision and explore and head into the canal proper tomorrow.

  

Cairngorms and Aviemore

There's snow on them there hills.

And no, we didn't get there by boat.

With the forecast is still showing 7s with the promise of worse to come we were bound to get stuck somewhere in the next few days and as Arbroath is a well sheltered and convenient harbour we decided that the boat should stay put.
We hired a car and went off to explore the Highlands in comfort.
Bob has been sailing since the age of seven. He is not from a sailing family, but got a lot of support and encouragement from his parents after showing promise on a family holiday in Aviemore.

This lake, Loch Morlick was where it all began. The present sailing instructors didn't remember him, in fact I don't think she was born that long ago,(her parents probably weren't born either)

There was an outdoors wedding taking place on the small beach when we were there. They were all in full Scottish regalia and music was provided by a couple of pipers.

One of the typically highland villages we went through was the one Bobs parents house is named after so we just had to stop and take some photos.

(I'm putting them in for his Mum)

We stayed the night in a small hotel in Nairn, our room had a bath! Rare luxury after two months of marina showers.

Travelling back today we did the coast road from Nairn to Arbroath, calling in at several Harbours along the way and seeing the route we are about to sail next from the shore side perspective. Hopefully we will be able to start that trip on Tuesday evening or Wednesday morning, depending on the usual restraints.

pictures

At long last we managed to get a photo of a seal. This one was resting on a buoy in the Firth of Forth, there had been two of them but his mate made it back into the water before I could get the camera out.

The boat tied up in Arbroath , where it is staying until this current series of lows blow through, Tuesday perhaps.
We have hired a car for tomorrow and are heading inland to take a look at the highlands and pay homage at Loch Morlich, where Bob had his very first sailing experience and where at the age of seven his life was changed forever!

Today we had a look round Arbroath, especially the famous Abbey, now in ruins.

Back in harbour Scottish Lady arrived after a testing sail from Eyemouth. They are fellow all-rounders who we met up with whilst waiting for weather in Lowestoft. They told us that solo all sailer Mike who is heading for the Western Isle in his Jaguar, Jagged Edge, is only a day behind them (well done that man).so we're hoping to see him again soon.
As far as I know the couple in the cat that we also met in Lowestoft, Carolyn and Richard are in Peterhead as is the other solo sailer Oliver in the eighteen foot Jolly Olly.  http://www.olivers-travels.co.uk/

Port Edgar to Arbroath

We had a wonderful sail to Arbroath today, one of those magic occasions when everything went right. Wind and tide behind us all the way, the boat creamed along at around seven knots, touching eight on one strong gust.
That's what sailing is all about!

Port Edgar was possibly the friendliest marina we have been in and we will miss the people we met there. Hopefully one or two will keep in touch.
We were unexpectedly presented with a bottle of very fine whisky on leaving, apparently in exchange for some very cheap wine consumed on Tehari II. Thanks a lot mate xxx.

Small world moment at Port Edgar--Met a chap who had been a member at Shoreham Yacht club some years ago. He had fond memories of sailing there and knew a few of the older names.

Arbroath marina is in an enclosed dock, very quiet and peaceful so far. There is an art gallery, pub and ice cream shop in walking distances, we might well visit all three.     

edinburgh

Some scenes of Edinburgh.

Edinburgh Castle

The Royal Mile

Hollyrood House

We spent today in harbour due to high winds but intend to sail tomorrow weather permitting.

Eyemouth to Edinburgh

Sailed up the Firth of Forth to Edinburgh on a fairly overcast day and in a significant amount of wind, mostly from the South West. We stopped for a break  in Anstruther then continued on to Gratham but found that the harbour had silted up and we couldn't put Tehari II on the pontoon, so after a night on a swinging mooring we headed up to Port Edgar this morning.    

We passed a mixture of rugged scenery and pretty villages as well as these two famous and very high bridges.

 There was also evidence of industry and a oil refinery or two, we didn't take pictures.

South Queensferry is a quaint old town, very touristy, and popular with bikers which gave Bob something to interest him. The museum was free and full of local history and info about the building of the two bridges. Tomorrow we take the bus to Edinburgh.

Jolly Olly

In Eyemouth we met up with an incredibly brave young man by the name of Olly Rofix. He is a sailing around Britain in a tiny 18 foot boat for charity.
Olly is a leuceamia surviver and bone marrow recipient so is raising awareness of the Anthony Nolan Trust. 

Olly's boat looking very small next to a catamaran belonging to Richard and Carolyn who are making for the Orkneys. For more information about this incredible voyage and if you want to sponser Olly see his website http://www.olivers-travels.co.uk/

scotland

This is a video of us sailing towards the Scottish coast.
If anyone knows how to get it up the right way I'd be grateful to hear from you.

Holy Island (Lindisfarne) to SCOTLAND

We anchored in Holy Island harbour last night and were watched by about fifty seals who appeared to think that we had ivaded their territory. They kept coming to have a look at us but didn't stay long enough for us to take a photo, they played with our anchor bouy, three of them head butting it together at one time, but they always managed to duck back under the water when the camera came out. If we ever do this trip again a better camera is a must.

We left Lindisfarne this morning and had the best sail in the world to Eyemouth. Off shore wind of force four to five on a flat calm sea. We saw speeds of eight knots on a broad reach, not bad for a country cottage of a boat.      

We arrived in Eyemouth in Scotland in no time at all and have already had time for a pint in the local and a look at the maritime museum.

Bugle bay

Set off for the Farne Islands in the promised 4-5 decreasing. Made good time as the wind built behind us, arrived at Farne Islands in 33 knots of wind so decided not to attempt the narrow entrance into the Kettle anchorage as planned and instead anchored close to the shore in Bugle Bay.

Just enjoying our brunch when the Coastguard put out a call for any vessels in the region of Budle bay to respond. Eager to come to the assistance of any fellow mariners in distress we responded promptly, only to find that it was ourselves that had been reported to be in need of assistance.

A dog walker on the beach had alerted the coastguard to a boat sideways on to the waves and appearing to be in difficulties. Two life boats were already launched and heading towards us. We were embarrassed but reassured that there are people watching out for us, and that had we been in difficulties their response would have been so prompt!

Listening to the conversation between the lifeboats and the coastguard they were most reluctant to turn back.

If the wind drops off sufficiently in the next few hours we will try to get a closer look at the Farne Islands again. Otherwise we will wait where we are until there is enough water to get safely in to Holy Island(Lindisfarne)

This coastline is peppered with magnificent castles, often on headlands or peninsulas.






     

Amble

We are now on a very exiting stretch of coastland, negotiating our way round rocks instead of sand banks. The three hour trip from Blyth to Amble had a bit of everything. The highest gust we saw was twenty four knots then it dropped away to nothing, leaving an enormous north sea swell with not enough wind to push the boat through it. It rained heavily, then became bright and sunny, then looked as if fog was rolling in, though it didn't quite reach us.

The lighthouse on Coquet island was a reassuring sight but the conditions weren't right for photography.

The approaching fog was a factor in causing us to decide to go into Amble a little earlier than planned, ie two hours before high water rather than waiting for high water as intended. There was enough tide but the one metre swell on the entrance caused both of us some concern and the echo sounder showed only 1.4 once, inpressive when you've got a 1.7 draft.
We didn't touch bottom, perhaps because we were rolling from side to side quite dramatically. Very pleased to tie up!
It was worth it. Able and Warkworth are lovely towns, very quiet with lots of walkers tea rooms and pretty scenery. We cycled along the river to Walkworth castle.

Not sure whether this was built by the English to keep the Scots out or the Scots to keep the English out. This border region has been claimed by both over the centuries. 

 

About to leave Blyth

The Blyth yacht club is housed in an old wooden lightship. They bought it in he 1960's for £600, which as they say up here, 'was an arm and a leg' then. It used to be the Calshot light, so came all the way up from our home waters.

Blyth used to be a busy thriving port with plenty of industry around it. They speak fondly of the Aluminium works the water pollution from which kept the weed off the boats and made antifouling unnecessary for many years.

There are no active coal mines in this part of the world any more. The one I thought I saw was a potash mine. All the ports up here used export coal, now apparently its imported, you do 'bring coals to Newcastle.'
One chap said of Blyth "it makes the local paper if a commercial ship comes in."

A guy in the bar said he commutes to Carlyle for work now, but he did manage to buy his boat with his last redundancy settlement.

Blyth again.

We set off at mid day for our next port of call, Amble, a very tidal harbour that you need to arrive at close to high tide. One hour out I looked for my sailing jacket only to find it was not on board. A phonecall to the yacht club revealed that it was hanging up in their bar.
Given the price of nautical clothing there was no option but to turn back.
Arrived at four in the afternoon. I steered in while Bob did ropes and fenders, and to add to a fairly unsatisfactory day, I hit a ladder on the pontoon and chipped the paint on the bow.
And it's started to rain.
Hope tomorrow goes better!

Blyth

We left Whitby this morning, and yes we did sample the delights of the Magpie restaurant, and very nice it was to, thanks for the recommendation.

Sailed up the coast past all the big industrial ports, Teeside Sunderland, Newcastle etc, but decided against stopping!!! We're in the much smaller port of Blyth on the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club's moorings.
We passed some very pretty villages, nestling in the cliffs as well as what appeared to be a working mine, (I didn't know there were any left).

Weather today is overcast again but quite warm. Forecast for the next few days is rain.

On the move again!

After an unexpectedly long but very pleasant stay in Lowestoft the wind finaly died down enough for the planned long trip to Whitby. We met several couples and one lone sailor also doing the round and waiting for weather who we are hoping to bump into again as we progress round. (Many thanks to Mike for the beers and have you set off yet?) Also made friends amongst the sailing club members, a lovely bunch of people.
We left just before midnight on Tuesday, sailed for thirty hours and avoided the sand banks, oil platforms windfarms and any number of ships, tows etc. We did hit a lobster pot during the night at night but fortunately it stayed put.
Came through to Whitby Marina on the seven o'clock bridge opening and then, after Bob had fixed the alternator which had decided to stop working yesterday, we promptly fell asleep.

After a nap we explored the town, walking up the many steps to the ruined Abbey

From which the views were splendid.

Putting in lots of Pictures because of the various family associations with Whitby, (love to you all)

Pity it wasn't a brighter day, we seem to have lost the sunshine with the high winds but no rain as yet.

Sights

Tehari II dressed overall for the Royal Wedding.

We remain stuck in Lowestoft waiting for favourable conditions to continue Northwards but there are certainly worse places we could be. The yacht club members have been incredibly friendly and welcoming and make sure we are included in anything that is going on.

This is the pier and the stretch of sand next to it is known as the childrens beach.  

The yacht club. A fantastic building overlooking the marina.